25.09.25Tsukinoya is easily the most magical place we’ve ever stayed. We stayed three nights, but wish that we’d stayed longer. The couple who own Tsukinoya are the sweetest, most helpful people. The gentleman carried our luggage up three flights of stairs to our room, and insisted on driving us to our destination multiple times.
The onsen honestly was a life-changer. We used the one on the first floor and never had to wait for it. I wish we had facilities like this in the US. The individual rooms at Tsukinoya don’t have showers, but I promise, it’s for the best. My partner and I loved our nightly and morning trips down to the Tsukinoya onsen. It gave us privacy together to talk, to plan our day or to reminisce about the day, to refresh and relax. We had made plans at another onsen in Hakone to go spend a couple of hours, but traffic caused us to miss our reservation. Honestly, we weren’t even upset. We just went back to Tsukinoya and enjoyed their onsen.
Our room was beautiful (we were in the Matsengu, or “full moon” room), and the AC unit kept us cool in the late summer heat. Even just the walk up the stairs to our room was always enjoyable because they’ve done a fantastic job decorating the ryokan. The view from our windows of Hakone’s roofs and the mountains was absolutely gorgeous. We loved sitting at our table on the tatami and enjoying snacks from the nearby 7-11. The room included a refrigerator so we could store our many 7-11 snacks, and also very cute little sake glasses. Of note, the 7-11 is within easy downhill walking distance, but ask about the shortcut up the stairs and through the shrine to get back - we took the hill the first night and it was rough, but after the gentleman showed us the stairs it was much easier!
The owners also supplied us with hot water multiple times daily, so we could enjoy cup noodles in our room (my partner also enjoyed the tea they supplied). They also supply yukata for the onsen!
Tsukinoya is a really special place. This is easily one of my favorite places I’ve ever stayed in my life. If you’re considering it, don’t pass it up. And if you’re Western and not used to an onsen-style bath, just keep an open mind and try it! Don’t let the lack of showers in each room put you off. Take the time to go with your travel companions down to the onsen and really enjoy it. It is SO worth it.
